Weaving

Tying a new warp on to an old warp

     The purpose for tying a new warp on to an old warp is primarily to save time and is used to duplicate the previous threading.  In my own experience, I have saved approximately about two hours tying on a 288 thread warp and find the process quite smooth once a rhythm is acquired.  I will be using my waffle weave towels as an example:

     Once you have finished the piece you are working on on the loom (the 'old' warp), cut the warp about 3 to 5 inches in front of the reed as opposed to at the back beam in 1 to 2 inch sections.  Loosely tie the sections together so the ends do not slip back behind the reed.  (Finding these can be quite challenging)

     Count out the ends of the new warp and position them using whatever method you find most comfortable.  In the case of the waffle weave towels, I chose to use lease sticks tied to the front beam.  The best way to secure the new warp onto the old warp is a weaver’s knot as this knot is known for not slipping and is very secure.  Work across the entire width of the warp tying each knot.  If you have two ends per dent, you want to make sure that the ends are not crossed as this can create problems with the rising and falling of the harnesses. 

     Once all of the new ends have been tied onto the old warp, you can start to beam the warp.  Take care and watch the knots as they pass through the heddles.  You may find that some of the tails of the weaver’s knots, depending on how long they are, may get tangled and possibly bend the heddles if you try to force them through.  A good way of untangling the knots is to loosely rake your fingers through the ends then try to beam again.

     When you have nearly come to the end of the warp and see the weaver’s knots passing over the back beam, you may want to start watching for the tails of the weaver’s knots tangling again.  At the end of the warp, as the knots come closer to the heddles, you will experience more tangling of the tails.  I personally try to get the knots as close to the heddles as I can by simply raking my fingers through the tails after as needed.  As the tails become tangled, it makes it more difficult for the harnesses to separate.  It is completely up to you when to stop because you are going to have to consider the amount of waste you calculated into the warp length.  Perhaps a good calculation for waste on the first project that is a new tied on warp, is to add the distance from the back beam to the harnesses.  This way you can get a feel for the process and determine just how close you can get the knots.   Again, this method is primarily used for saving time on rethreading the headless.